Backyard Smokehouse


1/30/14 11:41am - This is an American fare restaurant that also serves BBQ.  The previous tenant was a restaurant that served steaks and barbecue.  The kitchen may have come equipped with a gas fired commercial smoker for the new tenant.  So why not add barbecue to the menu along with 58 other items?  The owner has chosen image over substance.  The restaurant is clearly not presented as a traditional BBQ joint but it does borrow the image of one.  The menu section for BBQ is labeled "From the Pit".  The entrees are individually named with predetermined meat choices.  For example you cannot order a 3 meat plate, but you can order an overprice entree called "The Defender".  Image over substance.

I scored Backyard Smokehouse a 65 out of 100.  This is Bum Steer BBQ.



 

Smoke:  Pecan/cherry.  Not a stick in site is a bad sign.  There is no smoke stack.  I did see an exhaust vent typically used for gas ovens.  No wood fired BBQ here.  No doubt, its a gasser.  There is a trailer mounted steel barrel smoker taking up valuable parking space.  No licence plate and a 1/8in of dust inside, so its obviously for show.  Image over substance. 

Brisket:  Good.  Smoke Ring nearly invisible but I measured it at 1/16in  Tested tough of tender.  Had a nice rub.  Mild smoke.  Use a knife and use the sauce.

Ribs: Poor.  Baby back ribs served "wet".  They were chewy tough and cooked too fast.  A salt bomb rub beneath a pasty dried out sauce.  Smoke or burnt, I couldn't tell.  Use the sauce or skip all together.

Sausage:  Good.  A course ground pork 6in link with bold traditional spice and strong pepper aftertaste.  Its split and thrown on the grill.  I liked the grill marks but it dried out the link.  It had mild smoke flavor.  Best item on the plate.  Use the sauce.

Sauce:  Good.  A commercial grade purchased sauce with restaurant label.  Kansas City style sweet and tangy.  Ketchup based with brown sugar and vinegar.  There is no attempt to hide this purchased product.  Image over substance.  Use it on everything.

You cannot be half hearted when it comes to Texas Barbecue. Even with a commercial gas oven some skill and TLC is still required.  This concept could not exist without a gas fired commercial smoker.  Another reason to hate gasser BBQ.
 
Backyard Smokehouse on Urbanspoon
 
 

Big 6 Bar B Que


1/22/14 11:45am - I was eager to discover some great Food Trailer 'que based on some high rated hipster reviews, but found that Big 6 is more like a Medium 3.

I scored Big 6 B Que a 79 out 100.  This is Regional Texas BBQ.

Smoke:  Pecan. There is supposedly wood fired pit inside the trailer.  I was refused to snap a picture of the pit from the inside.  There are 2 smoke stacks protruding from the top and a fire box that is loaded from the outside.  A container of pecan next to the trailer. All you can see from the widow is a frame and wood door like a closet.  There is not a lot of room for a wood fired pit but I'll take their word for it.

Brisket:  Fair.  An 1/5in purple smoke ring and paper thin bark.  Tested Dry of Tender and was close to being overcooked.  Descent smoke flavor but not much else.  Use the sauce.

Ribs:  Good. Once again slightly overcooked and on the dry side of tender.  Overall flavor was salty pork and smokey pecan.  It had a rub but the seasoning was long gone.  Use the sauce.

Sausage: Excellent.  I have had several samples of what I presume is East Texas style spicy sausage and I love it every time.  A course ground pork sausage with bold traditional spice and hint of cayenne pepper for a little heat.  No sauce needed at all.

Sauce:  Excellent.  A Kansas City style dark sweet thick sauce.  It was sweet, tangy and smokey.  Molasses and brown sugar flavors.  So good you could spoon it for dessert.  A good thing because this place needs a great sauce.

 
Big 6 Bar B Que on Urbanspoon

Kreuz Market













1/4/14 1:20pm & 9/6/13 12:16pm - This was my second trip back to Kreuz (pronounced "krites").  I scored it last time but did not publish.  On my way back from hunting, I made it a point to swing through Lockhart and score it for the second time.  I wanted two scores to back up my review of this hall of fame Texas BBQ.   They have been serving barbecue since 1900.  Kruez has made Texas Monthly Top 3 in 1997 (now Smitty's because the Sista's rent was "too damn high"), Top 5 in 2003, and Top 5 in 2008.  However, in 2013 Kruez slip to Top 50 status.  My first impression upon return:  Somebody noticed they did not get top billing in 2013 Texas Monthly!
 


My score of Kreuz is a 96 out 100.  The is Grand Champion Texas BBQ at its finest.  My previous score was 91.  Upon my second trip, I immediately noticed the improvement in quality.  With my scoring system, there is now a measurable improvement.  If TM sampled my September visit, I get the top 50 status.  If TM sampled my January visit, Kruez is back on top ( calling Daniel Vaughn...calling Daniel Vaughn...).

Smoke:  Seasoned Post Oak.  Kruez ages their post oak for two years.  Iconic brick pits that have graced the pages of magazines, books and blogs for years.  I was lucky to place my order with Roy Perez, a Texas legend pitmaster sporting some impressive muttonchops that would make Elvis jealous.   Enjoy a moment and take in the massive smoke crypts, the orange fire glow and blue smoke floating in the air.  Then clutch your brown butcher paper wrapped booty to the nearest table for a religious experience.

Brisket:  Super Excellent.  A very impressive 5/16in smoke ring beneath a beautiful thick black bark.  A huge 1/2in slice was pull apart silky tender and every bite was moist.  Salt & Pepper rub gave huge flavor boost.  Smoke infusion throughout and the smokey render fatty parts made you dizzy.  Slices like this haunt you.  No sauce needed.  No fork needed.  Good thing because you can't find either at Kruez.  No kidding (see owner's face).  This slice improved from Excellent to Super Excellent.

After eating at Kruez and a handful of other legendary joints, I have concluded I need a new ranking for brisket.  Briskets that score 39 or better are at a whole other level and must be separated from merely Excellent (36.75 or better).  These briskets demonstrate what I call "Maximum Tenderness".  This is where the fat is rendered to perfection, collagens have melted to luxurious silkiness, and maximum moisture has been retained.  The result is a slice that you can pull apart with your fingers, its silky in texture, and remains moist and never drys out:  Maximum Tenderness.

Ribs: Excellent.  A medium sized spare rib with near perfect tenderness, with soft rosy bite beneath crust.  Little tearing and clean bone.  Silky and moist in every bite.  Smoke is blended throughout the salty pork rib. Flavor is enhanced by the salt & pepper rub.  No sauce needed.  These ribs improved from Good to Excellent (quite a jump!).

Sausage:  Excellent.  A typical Central Texas style beef ring link.  I did not grow up eating these rings, so I approach each link with a little a trepidation.  If done wrong these rings can taste like mushy beef.  Kreuz does it right.  A tight packed fine ground beef link (15% pork) inside a snappy casing.  Good garlic and beef flavor with a strong peppery after taste.  Very fresh, juicy and smokey.  No sauce needed.

Sauce: N/A.  They do not serve sauce at Kruez and never will.  There was a time long ago before air conditioning and the first oil boom when there was no sauce served in Texas.  There was a time long ago when there was a debate about sauce vs Texas BBQ.  That was a long time ago and sauce won.  Its here to stay and part of the score.  Out of respect to Kreuz and tradition I awarded them a score slightly below the average all others.  This way I did not punish them with a zero and kept their score comparable to everyone else that serves sauce.
Kreuz Market on Urbanspoon

Rudy's Country Store & BBQ


I12/08/13 12:08pm - This is where the "worst bar-b-q in Texas" empire began. This is the original Rudy's. Now there are over 30 restaurants across 5 states. Yep, adding BBQ to the grocery store and gas station business back in 1989 worked out pretty good. So how does the original compare to the franchise?

I scored the original Rudy's an 86 out of 100. This is Reserve Grand Champion Texas BBQ.












Smoke: Oak. Stacks and stacks of post oak used in real brick pits. The franchise locations use wood fired Olyers.


Brisket: Very Good. A 5/16 impressive smoke ring beneath a thick substantial bark. Tested tough of tender just like the franchise. Same rub and oak smoke flavor as the franchise. Overall this brisket tastes better than the franchise, hands down. The difference is the full intense smoke flavor from the brick pits. If you love Rudy's BBQ, don't miss an opportunity to eat at the original.

Ribs: Fair. Must have caught them on a bad day. I have had better ribs here in the past. Tested tough of tender with much tearing and dirty bone. Overall flavor was dull. Full smoke but little else.

Sausage: Good. This is a different link than what is served in the franchise. My first thought is this a big smokey yummy hot dog! Fine ground pork and maybe beef with salt, mild spice and no aftertaste. Great smoke flavor. I envisioned putting this big link on a bun covered in Chile and cheese.

Sauce: Excellent. What can I say? This is the best sauce in the state. My own recipe is an attempt to duplicate this sauce. Before the franchise exploded, the wife always sent instructions to buy a bottle when coming back from the deer camp.

Overall I am impressed how well the franchise compares to the original. There are other big name Texas BBQ joints that have expanded their business, but none have done it better than Rudy's.
Rudy's Country Store & Bar-B-Q on Urbanspoon

Ultimate Turkey


11/28/13 - My wife triple-dog-dared me to smoke the Turkey on the new Lyfe Tyme pit this year for Thanksgiving. Of course I accepted the challenge. Now all the pressure was on me or we would be eating Peking Duck with Ralfy.

I researched a few recipes and went back to my tried, true and most trusted source: Amazingribs.com. This website is my go-to for all things barbecue. The website manager refers to himself as Meathead. On the site one can find The Ultimate Turkey Recipe. Well, with a name like that how can I possibly fail? Go to the website for specific ingredients and recipes.

First, we need a bird. My first preference was to brine a fresh organic bird. Most turkeys are injected at processing with a saline solution and then flash frozen. I found a one at a Whole Foods for around $75!. After recovering from sticker shock, I thought a $10 frozen 16 pound bird with 8% solution injection sounded just mouth watering.

Next we have to thaw the bird. The website suggested putting the frozen bird in the refrigerator on Friday morning before Thanksgiving. My wife thought that was way too long but Meathead said so. Who to trust? Wife or Meathead? I compromised and started thawing Saturday morning. Wednesday night there were still ice crystals in the bird, so I pulled it out for several hours before going to bed. Meathead was right, but don't tell the wife.
 

Its Thanksgiving morning. Game On! The first thing to do was to prepare the "Gravy" and the bird. I put Gravy in quotations because its not your typical grease and flour concoction. This Gravy serves two purposes. First, it provides a steamy bath inside the pit to help keep the bird from drying out. Second, it provides a thin flavor power packed broth that will penetrate the sliced turkey.
 

Before Turkeyday, find a disposable aluminum roasting pan that will fit underneath the grates of your pit. I have a 16in barrel with bars 16 inches apart that support the grate. I got a 13"W by 15 1/2"L pan. It also needs a volume of 3 quarts or more. This pan was almost 3 inches deep. The length was a little too long. I had to warp and bend the pan to get it out of the pit. Some precious broth was sacrificed for this costly error.

Prepare thawed bird. Place thawed bird in bag in pan. Remove bag and keep every last drop of the melted juices. Remove pop out thermometer and throw in trash. This is not amateur hour. I am a backyard professional!.....aided by digital remote thermometer technology. Remove red ice and neck from cavity and place in pan. Trim loose fatty skin from craw and butt and place in pan. You want a nice open cavity for smoke and heat to flow through. Find that nasty bag inside the butt. Pull out heart and gizzards and place in pan. Throw liver and nasty bag in the trash. Next cut the wing tips off at the joint. Now, remove the bird from pan. These turkey parts, juice and red ice are the stock of our "Gravy". Amen.

Next add 3 quarts of water, apple juice, onions, carrots, celery, sage, thyme and bay leaves to the "gravy" pan. These items are for flavor only. They will not be consumed.

Next prepare bird for pit. First, remove the steel/plastic thingamajig that holds the tops of the drumsticks together. We smoke our turkey spread eagle! This helps the dark meat cook evenly with the white meat. I bet some prude came up with this contraption. How could you possibly raise your Southern Debutantes to keep their knees together and feet crossed and then present a trashy immoral bird on the Thanksgiving Day table?

Second, prepare the wet rub. This is an herb rub mixed with oil. The herb rub consists of parsley, sage, rosemary, thyme, oregano, basil, bay leaf, black pepper and sugar. The oil helps dissolves the flavor of the herbs and it crisps the skin. I chose olive oil. Spread this oily herb wet rub first underneath the skin of the breast and then over the top of the whole bird.
 


Injection. You would never think of frying a turkey without injecting it with some magic marinade. Why skip this step for smoking a turkey. A buttery injection will give this bird a flavor boost and add must needed moistness. I chose a creole butter injection.

Next prepare the aromatic ingredients for the cavity. No stuffing for this bird. Stuffing means just more mass in the center that has to be cooked. We want an open cavity for smoke, aroma, and heat to cook and swirl flavor from the inside out. Place inside cavity onion, garlic cloves, fresh thyme, orange peel and fruit wood chips. None of this will be consumed. I don't know if it works or not but I can testify that my backyard was filled with an intoxicating perfume. My pit smelt so good I placed my nose over the smoke stack to enjoy the aroma. Unfortunately that aroma was super heated to 300F! Ouch!
 


The target temp is 160F deep in the heart of the breast. Stick the remote digital thermometer probe into the middle of the thickest part of the breast. With the bird spread eagle, the dark meat of the thighs and drum sticks can reach a temp of 175F while deep breast meat reaches 160F. Place the bird with drumsticks facing the heat source. The large open cavity also faces the heat and smoke.

Wife wanted to serve dinner at 1:00pm. A 16 pound bird at 325F should cook in 3 hours. I have yet to get my pit to hold a temp as high as 325F. I told the wife it will take 4 hours to cook bird. She was unaware that I didn't have a clue how long it would take. Fired up the pit and bird at 9:00am. Pit struggled first hour to get up near 300F. I figured that was because the cold large bird and cool gravy pan were absorbing the heat. At 10:30 pit finally reached the 300 mark but stayed underneath it most of the cook time. My average pit temp was 271F, well beneath the suggested 325F. However, the internal temp of the bird steady rose the entire cook time. It never stalled or retreated so my anxiety over cooking at a lower temp subsided but my anxiety over finishing too soon rose. This bird was cooking fast! It was rising 40 per hour. At that rate I would be done an hour ahead of schedule. Bird hit target temp of 160F 30 minutes ahead of schedule. Not to fear, stuck bird in a dry beer cooler. By carving time 2:00pm (Ha! Wife was late for once) it was still too hot to touch.

Recipe recommended going light on the smoke. Use oak or fruit woods but not mesquite and hickory. I chose Pecan. I added chunks throughout the process.
 


Results: The turkey was very very moist and tender. After I finished carving the turkey, there was a large puddle of juice. This was much more juicy and tender than frying and so much better than dry-as-bone oven roast. I was disappointed in the the smoke flavor. It was very faint and undetectable. I will go a lot heavier next time. I imagine the gravy steam bath prevented what little smoke there was from ever reaching the bird. The "Gravy" was another disappointment. After I strained all the solids I was left with a water drowned turkey broth with very little flavor. I'll substitute chicken stock for water next time for more flavor. The wet herb rub was a big success. It was a dominant flavor that you could taste in every bite. The aromatics produced a wonderful perfume for the backyard but did very little in flavor. I could not detect anything. The creole butter injection added to the juiciness but I cant testify for its flavor. Probably skip this step next time.

When you get the nod of approval from the Mother-in-law who secrectly prepared and smuggled in a second turkey (just in case I failed), you know you have a new Thanksgiving day tradition.

Brisket Bar B Q


11/15/13 - Never judge a book by its cover.  When you enter the parking lot, you think "this place has to be good".  Its a stand alone structure with an old vintage look.  Tin roof, smoke stack, cedar and limestone finishes.  Unfortunately, it all goes down hill from there.

I scored Brisket Bar B Q a 71 out of 100.  This is Bum Steer BBQ
 


Smoke:  Large stacks of hickory behind a CMU block smoke house with rusted smoke stack reaching to the sky.  Looks like an Olyer and all the signs of wood fired BBQ.  This is the first wood fired Bum Steer rating.  Since I spot wood fire 5 points, this is worst than most gassers.
 


Brisket:  Good.  A 1/4" smoke ring beneath a smokey chewy bark.  Tested tough of tender. Even the fat was tough.  It dried out fast.  Need a good set of teeth for this brisket.  Use the sauce.

Ribs: Fair.  Tough and chewy.  Had a good rub, smoke and salty pork flavor.  Need a better set of teeth for these ribs.  Maybe they should go all the way and sell jerky.  Use the sauce.

Sausage:  Fair.  A fine ground salty pork link.  Casing was chewy.  Tasted like greasy Bologna. Use the sauce.

Sauce:  Fair.  A thick clumpy tangy brown sauce.  Flavor was mild buttery tomato soup.  Everything here needs sauce but they need a new sauce here.  Bring your own.
 

 
Brisket Bar-B-Q on Urbanspoon

Meat Candy

11/9/13 - Dropped the wife off for the annual Nutcracker Market.  Its a some what of tradition for the Houston ladies.  Its an excuse to get together with your girlfriends, drink wine, and buy overprice Christmas junk.  All under the guise of supporting the arts, the Houston Ballet.  Just an excuse for wine and shopping, two things Houston ladies do best.

Anyway, I am on my own for supper tonight and there is an Aggie football game on today.  Time to fire up the pit!

I decided to make my fabulous Meat Candy ribs.  I got this recipe from Southern Living a few years ago.  The key is the wet seasoning.  It transforms the smokey porky goodness into Meat Candy!

I wanted spare ribs but the wife likes baby backs so what to do?  Smoke 'em both! No since in wasting all the hard work on one slab of ribs. 

First I remove the membrane off the back of the ribs.  I hate it when I order ribs and there is this plastic sheet on the bottom.  Pure laziness.  It  takes 1 minute to remove.
 

I prepared my secret rib rub.  Its heavy on salt vs sugar.  Light on Black Pepper.  Chili powder for transitional flavor.  Secret spice is cinnamon.  If I don't scorched the ribs the cinnamon flavor comes through so subtle.  Cover both sides generously with the rub.  The salt starts the dry brining process. I leave on counter while I get pit ready.

Smoke? Pecan is the perfect Meat Candy nutty smoke.  You want to go soft on the smoke so you can taste all the great meat Candy flavor.  Will use charcoal and a few chunks of pecan for smoke flavor.
 


Love my pit.  One chimney of charcoal and it hits 238 in fifteen minutes.  Couple chunks of pecan and were smokin.  Put on a chimney about every 75 minutes with pecan chunks.  At hour 4 I pull the ribs off for the wet seasoning.  The meat temp as reached 175 not the 185 target I wanted but its getting late. 

 

Aggs BTHO out Mississippi State! 51 to 41.  Johnny Manziel's last home game.  I am going to miss Johnny Football.  He was stuff of legend and myth.
 
 


 

The wet seasoning is pineapple juice, peach nectar and a little balsamic vinegar.  The core ingredient is pineapple, you can experiment with other nectar like apricot or mango.  Place ribs meat side down in foil.  Pour a cup over the ribs.  Fold up tight and put back on pit for an hour.
 


 

Pull ribs off, discard foil and juice.  I love the fruity steam aroma that rises when you open the foil.  Place ribs back on pit meat side up to dry off a little. 

Try to get internal temp up to 190 but it has fallen to 167.  This is taking way too long. Six hours is long enough for ribs.  I am not waiting until 10pm to eat.  Wife will be home soon and I have to pretend like I'm interested in the junk she bought.
 

 

Ribs:  Good.  As expected the tenderness was not perfect.  Blogging is easy than smoking. Slight tearing and dirty bone.  A nice rosy red interior underneath a tasty bark.  The wet seasoning flavor was deep into the rib and the rub added yet another flavor boost.  The pecan smoke was just right and added another flavor dimension to the ribs.  No sauce needed.